Con PoulosConsider the upsides. Cans are portable and easy to chill—both crucial considerations during the summer months. You can take them places where bottles are a pain in the neck, like the beach or an overnight camping trip. You can buy a single serving if that’s the sort of person you are (i.e., not me). They’re inexpensive.

And they’re environmentally friendly: light—hence a low carbon footprint—and with a substantially higher recycling rate than glass. They’re also getting popular, quickly.

To give one example, first released its Underwood canned wines in 2014. In 2019, more than half their 515,000-case production was in cans.

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More anecdotally, every time I think I’m done tasting for this story, I get an email about another new launch. I’ve tasted dozens recently. Sure, some were weird: clunky, metallic, you name it. But you’ll see that in any broad selection of bargain wines. The best were delightful—full of flavor, juicy and no different than what you’d find in one of those old-fashioned things they used to put wine inwhat were they called?

Tracy Schuhmacher/@RahChaChow/staff photographerAs people pack their picnic baskets and coolers and head to beaches, boats, campgrounds and concerts, one thing that will likely stay home is wine. The bottles, along with the necessary accouterments like corkscrew and wine glasses are either unwieldy or not allowed at many popular summertime pastimes.Several Finger Lakes wineries hope to change that situation by the end of the summer, when at least five will be offering wines in cans. In doing so, they will be hopping on a nascent trend in the wine industry.Nielsen first reported explosive sales growth of canned wines in 2016; they had 125.2 percent sales growth during the 52 weeks ended June 18, 2016, with total sales of $14.5 million, up from $6.4 million in the prior year.Earlier this year, the measurement and data analytics company said that while wines in a can represent less than 1 percent of the overall wine market, the potential of this alternative packaging shouldn’t be minimized. While glass bottles still represent nearly 73 percent of sales, alternative packaging is growing. First cans from the Finger Lakes.

Ghost rider motorcycle. Tracy Schuhmacher/@RahChaChow/staff photographerThe company bringing the technology for canned wines to the Finger Lakes is IronHeart Canning Co., based in Manchester, N.H. The company has 40 mobile canning lines that travel primarily to breweries and cideries east of the Mississippi River.It took six months of research and development for the company to branch out to canning wine, said B. Solomon, divisional manager for IronHeart.

Because most canned wines do not have added carbon dioxide, liquid nitrogen has to be added to the cans to make them rigid.The company has been canning wines for only two months, Solomon said, and it already has bottled more than a million cans of wine. The potential for canned wine is huge, he said.“Part of the obstacle here is to educate the traditionalists,” Solomon said. “It just offers such a nice alternative.”MORE: Why America is drunk on canned wine Thin cans for bubbly wines.